This is in marinas and the guidance states, "Due to the possibility of corrosion, the galvanised steel armouring of cables must not be used wholly or in part as a circuit protective conductor (CPC) for the floating section of marinas. Try to get the armour wires about the same length all round. Well if it's a plastic enclosure, as per the OP, I would assume you are trying to maintain the IP rating in the majority of cases. I personally subscribe to the part in the regs. This method works well on the bigger cables. That way you can now bolt right through the tag and the enclosure. I believe that for correct CPC there should be a separate core used specifically for this. This article is a tutorial that shows how to correctly terminate Steel Wire Armoured (SWA) cable. For the purposes of this example we will terminate some XLPE insulated (PVC sheathed) 4mm² two core SWA: An adjacent building is supplied from the main building with a 4 core 70mm² XPLE SWA cable. Now the armour is correctly clamped we can fit the cable sealing nut if we have one. I've often checked them for tightness when going back to do other work and have never found any to have become loose.

There is plenty of thread, the clamping and sealing properties are far superior.Having read all the comments there has been no mention of serrated washers, these are effective in the connection and also maintains the locknut remains tight. If supplementary bonding is required then the use of a spare core of an SWA cable could be used or an additional CPC run in parallel with the cable.The vales of R1 + R2 for BS5467 XLPE Thermosetting copper cables at 200 C are shown below in Table 3.For cables with core CSAs greater than 16mm2 the impedance of the cable must be considered in addition to resistance for calculating the Zs for the circuit. If the cable is being glanded at one or both ends the method of putting the earth tag inside enclosure and bending same to connect bonding. Please excuse my last post about banjo clamped against gland body if on the inside, obviously that wouldn't be the case, if on the outside would be brass to brass contact as glm has stated. May be fine for immediate testing, but surprise, surprise, when you come back to it after a couple of years the connection is rusted and useless. The force required to make a reliable tight joint on to a SWA cable would effectively deform the cable and may loosen over time due the continued deformation of the cable. Mark the cut position with a soft pencil (or ring the cable again with the knife to leave a mark on the wires), and then use a strong pair of side cutters to snip off the wires a few at a time: Agreed - on the cable side of the gland plate is the correct way to do it - and it can be seen to be done if subject to visual inspection On another note, the well worn debate of banjo inside or outside on a metal enclosure. Use the following table as a guide, but check the specification of the actual brand of gland you purchase to be sure. Does anybody know if they are still available if not perhaps a manufacture should start making one this would make removing the coating a lot easier and a neater job.I buy internally serrated washers and connect earth at user end only. For the smaller SWAs a 20mm knock out makes an ideal termination hole. Plastic ones will often need a knockout trimming out with a sharp knife first. This allows the SWA cable to be protected by the circuit protection device that is protecting the live conductor(s) of the cable. The interior version lacks the extra gland nut with the rubber insert that is used to seal the the gland against the cable. Now move the inner round in an "orbiting" motion, so as to splay out all the wires: If you are doing this it is vital that the mating surfaces of the box are cleaned to ensure no corrosion or paint will interfere with the connection, and also that the back nut is done up tightly. If the armour is the only earth you're